Glossary




Intaglio

Design cut or sunk into a flat surface of metal or a hardstone. Intended to be used as a seal thus creating the pattern in reverse. 

Jacinth

A reddish orange gemstone.

Joaillerie

Jewellery composed mostly of gemstones.  

Jump Ring

A small oval or round ring used to create chains or to link charms or pendants onto a chain. 

Kokoshnik

A traditional Russian headdress, the shape of which inspired Kokoshnik Tiaras which follow the arched shape of the original headdress.

Loop in loop chain

A chain used in antiquity created by folding oval link in half and threading one into the next. More complicated chains can be formed by cross linking double loop in loop chains creating a chain with up to 8 sides. This created a herringbone pattern in thru chain.

Lunlua

 A gold collar shaped like a crescent moon. Often associated with prehistoric Ireland. 

Memento Mori

Latin for  “remember that you must die’.  A symbol which intends to remind the viewer of their mortality. Common motifs include skulls, hourglasses and wilting flowers.

Millefiori

Decorative glasswork technique meaning a thousand flowers. Long coloured glass rods fused together and cut in cross sections to create small tesserae.

Minaudière

A substitute for an evening bag originally designed by Van Cleef & Arples for Mrs. Florence J. Gould in 1930. Usually made out of plated metal and embellished.

Mizpah

Hebrew for watchtower. In the Victorian era jewellery engraved with Mizpah became popular and was given as a token of love or friendship.

Necklace

A piece of jewellery worn around the neck.

Nefer-sign

Egyptian hieroglyph for ‘beautiful’ .

Negligee

A necklace that usually sits below the collarbone with two irregular lengths coming from the centre with tassels or gemstones on the end. 

Nicolo

Onyx engraved in intaglio or cameo.

Niello

 A black coloured compound created of silver, lead , copper and sulfur that is used in inlays on engraved or etched metal. 

Objet de Vertu

Small objects of artistic quality. Often used by the wealthy in the 18th century. Often made of precious metal and embellished. 

Old European cut

A cut of diamond popular from 1890 to 1930 in Europe. These gems were hand cut with high crown and small table which allows for a disbursement of light which creates a ‘fire’ rather than brilliance. This ‘fire’ is a multicoloured flash of light from within the stone.

Old Mine Cut

An antique cut of diamonds. A cushion shaped cut with a high crown, deep pavilion, small table with 58 facets. Old mine cuts were cut by hand. 

Opus interrasile

intricate style of decoration created by piercing patterns in sheet gold.  

Orfèvrerie

 Goldsmith.

Pampilles

 (Tassels) In the context of jewelry it refers to a cascade of gemstones ending in a point. 

Parcel-gilt

 Silver objects that have been partly gilded.

Parure

 A matching set of jewelry; usually a combination of brooch or bracelet, earring and a necklace. 

Pectoral

 Formal Egyptian jewelry worn on chest.

Penannular Brooch

 A Celtic brooch shaped as an incomplete ring and often highly decorated. 

Pendant

A piece of jewellery that is suspended from another piece of jewellery.  

Peruzzi cut

 A square diamond cut with 58 facets, with small rectangular notches in the top corner. 

Plasma

Dark green quartz.

Plique-à-jour enamel

Pointillé

Decoration created by tiny dots which form a design.

Pomander

A small spherical case with a perforated shell which would be filled with spices or perfumes and worn to maintain a pleasant scent.

Portrait cut

A type of diamond cut that originated in the middle ages with two sets of angled facets on the top and the bottom of the stone. This allows light to enter from both sides of the stone.

Repoussé

Embossing. A metalwork technique where sheet metal is shaped by hammering from behind to create a raised pattern on the front side.

Ring

Jewellery  worn on the finger.

Rivière

 A necklace consisting of individually set graduated gemstones of the same variety.

Rose-cut

 A cut of diamond with a flat back and domed top.

Sard

 A reddish brown variety of quartz. Similar to cornelian although darker in colour. 

Sautoir

A long chain sometimes with a pendant or tassel at the bottom. 

Scarab

An Egyptian amulet shaped like a dung beetle worn to symbolize birth , life ,death and resurrection. The flat underside of the ambulate was often inscribed.